I was thrilled to be in Bolivia again. Having had a particularly pleasant day, I now calmly walked down the street. Turning the corner into a market – I was stunned. Immediately in front of me, hanging from a storefront, dangled a llama fetus. I stumbled back. Now I have seen these before, having grown up in Bolivia, but I had completely forgotten llama fetuses were a product I could expect to find. I had come across the mercado de las brujas (the witches market.)
Declared an intangible cultural heritage spot by the La Paz state government, el mercado de las brujas is crucial for traditional Andean rituals and medicine. Although only recognized officially in La Paz, there are mercados de brujas all over Bolivia.Â
 In my hometown Sucre, where the picture was taken, you can see people actively doing rituals and the remains of such on top of mount. Sica Sica. Hiking up Sica Sica is etched into my childhood with exotic incense smells, pleasant low burning fires, and colorful offerings. With these offerings, dating back centuries, one can ask la Pachamama (mother earth) for fertility, health, or luck. For example: Before returning to the United States on my last visit, my family and I hiked up Sica Sica to give an offering to la Pachamama so she would protect me on my trip back. Our offering contained Palo Santo (holy wood), Coca leaves, and eucalipto (eucalyptus), all bought in the mercado de las brujas. Traditionally, llama fetuses are also included in the offering to the Pachamama, being burned alongside the other herbs. Although technically part of the ritual, a lot of times they are not used as it may be a bit of a hassle getting one. Llama fetuses are more commonly buried below new buildings and structures to bring luck and prosperity.
Apart from ritual materials, native medicine can also be found. Herbs like lareta, lampaya, wira wira, eucalipto, tara tara, etc.. all play an important role in traditional healing. The Yatiris, also called brujos or witches, run the markets and administer traditional healing. During the beginnings of the pandemic, residents flocked to the Yatiris to help cure and deter Covid-19.
Yatiris and the mercado de las brujas are important to Bolivia as they keep the indigenous beliefs alive in an ever modernizing age. If you’re ever in Bolivia, don’t miss out. Even if llama fetuses are certainly unsightly, they, and the larger market, provide an inside look into the origin of Bolivians and their beautiful culture.